The Fall 2024 shows generated almost as many news stories as they did trends. Mary-Kate and Ashley Olsen's photo-free show for The Row. Anthony Vaccarello's bra-free one for Saint Laurent. Seán McGirr's debut at Alexander McQueen, Chemena Kamali's at Chloe. Runway crashers at Victoria Beckham. Sébastien Meyer and Arnaud Vaillant's 99 percent air, 1 percent glass, NASA-produced Air Swipe Bag at Coperni. The list goes on.
But the real story remains the one told by the clothes. What concepts continue to inspire designers and what we'll be wearing come fall. Typical of the season, we saw various new and inventive ways to stay warm via deconstructed knits, statement furs, hoods of all kinds, maximalist trench coats and clothing with built-in scarves. Typical of the last few runway seasons, we saw a lot of 80s influences, Western wear and lingerie. But there are some fun, unexpected (albeit not very wearable) newcomers. Namely, surprisingly-placed pockets and clothes and accessories masquerading as other clothes.
Ahead, all of the Fashion Month Fall 2024 trends to know and, in most cases, wear.
Not-Your-Grandfather's Heritage Fabrics
Ward off the cold in sturdy tweeds, houndstooth and tartan. But not in a British grandfather type of way. For Fall 2024, designers tailored the heritage fabrics into decisively modern silhouettes. There are the romantic coveralls at Giambattista Valli, a power-shoulder shorts suit at Stella McCartney. Dries Van Noten and Erdem gave houndstooth a rebrand by magnifying the checks and abandoning the classic black and white (Dries) and juxtaposing the duotone pattern over florals (Erdem).
Bold Shoulders (and Sleeves)
Don't get us wrong. For the most part, relaxed, practical tailoring is in. Still, for Fall 2024, several designers opted to play with proportion focusing on bigger-is-better shoulders and sleeves. The overall effects ranged from 80s (Ferragamo) to comical (JW Anderson).
Statement Fur
There's no denying that fabulous (faux) furs are a thing of the present and the future. Opulent, animal-like coats turned up on virtually every Fall 2024 runway. Thanks, #MobWifeAesthetic.
Fascinating Fringe
Fringe was all over the Fall 2024 runways, often in astonishingly innovative ways. We did see some more traditional dangling glittery accents (16Arlington, Christian Dior). But sculptural, technical pieces were at the forefront this season, from the fringed leather bodycon dress at Mugler to the asymmetrical looped yarn dresses and skirts at Alaïa.
Be a Lady
Perhaps the coquette trend is growing up. For Fall 2024, bows, 50s-style silk headscarves, gloves, stoles, skirt suits, flowers — all the cliché trappings of womanhood — featured heavily on the runways. Something tells us Moschino's come-from-the-market look will find its way to many a mood board.
Boudoir Dressing
We've seen lingerie-inspired pieces on the runways for many seasons now and Fall 2024 was no different. Balancing out the aforementioned Jacqueline Kennedy Onassis references was a parade of corsets, slip dresses, teddies and bras. Layer your silks over thin knits (per Chanel) or under fur and leather (see Ann Demeulemeester) to achieve textural interest and a PG rating.
Out-of-Pocket Pockets
Fashion is all about the details, including, apparently, pockets without any sort of practical use. At Courrèges and Di Petsa, models slid their hands suggestively into pants and trench coats with single pockets. At Loewe, exaggeratedly wide pockets extended from the sides of exaggeratedly voluminous dresses, one featuring a tapestry embroidery of a dog. Who needs a place to put their keys, anyway?
Scarf Hybrids
Speaking of practicality, the attached-and-therefore-impossible-to-lose-scarves trend we first saw in New York had serious legs overseas.
This as That
In a month saturated with collections, how does one achieve a viral moment? Displaced, repurposed garments, it seems. Victoria Beckham had trompe l'oeil jackets that turned out to be halter tops. Kimhekim fashioned an evening dress from a trench coat; Moschino a sweetheart top from neckties. Demna Gvasalia of Balenciaga took the concept to an extreme with a series of imaginative, found-object looks, including evening gowns and minidresses collaged from bras and backpacks.
Sheer Skirts
Chiffon for fall? Why not? A surprising number of designers incorporated transparent, light-as-air pieces into their cold-weather looks, most often in the form of (embellished) skirts.
Haute Hoodies and Hoods
Prepare to have a seriously toasty head and ears. For Fall 2024, designers are all about hoods and hoodies. Undercover opted for texture and shine with its tinseled, gossamer-overlain sweatshirt. Vetements went for an oversize look (of course), while Albert Kriemler of Akris topped his off with hats. At Tory Burch, Helmut Lang and more, hooded knits came super-snug and tight — perhaps our favorite way to wear them. (See how more New York designers styled their hoods here.)
Act II Aesthetic
Per usual, longtime Western wear devotees Isabel Marant and Stella McCartney played into the genre with their Fall 2024 collections. But this time they were joined by Chloe, Molly Goddard, Temperley London and many others. Which rodeo-ready look will you wear to Beyoncé's inevitable Act II tour?
Knits in Distress
Knitwear is a given at the fall collections. This season, designers showed their hand by splicing and shredding their offerings. Some appeared delicate and spiderweb-like (Sacai, Roberto Cavalli), others maintained more of their original form (Aniye Records, MM6 Maison Margiela).
Camera-Ready Trenches
Problematically, brands' latest dispatch of trench coats is almost too precious to wear in the rain. Still, they'll photograph nicely. From Roksanda's Mark Rothko-reminiscent textiles to the metallic punch-hole flower pattern at Cecilie Bahnsen to the Olsens' high-collar, full-skirted poplin take, the options are endless(ly appealing).
All Eyes on the Waist
In addition to supersizing shoulders, designers in New York, London, Milan and Paris are fixating on waists. Bold belts, peplum accents and structured, molded waistlines keep all eyes on the midsection. The intent was not to restrict models' movement, as with corsets, but to create a more dramatic, curving silhouette — artful, body-positive snatching, if you will.
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